Sabre 28: Mast steps

 Mast steps may be a logical addition for a full time cruiser.  While we are weekenders only with our boat, when I have to go up the mast, I want the added safety and convenience of steps. We looked at the versions available commercially and rejected them.  So back to the shop to make our own.

We found several examples of the basic design we went with.  One thing I didn't like and we changed was the lower flange.  All the designs we saw had the lower flange turned down.  I thought it was ugly so we turned it up.  We ordered 3/8 x 1.25 aluminum rectangle bar from Onlinemetals.com   They are a little beefy but ok by me.  We are preparing to un-step the mast and re-rig.  When the mast is down, the steps will be one of several projects.  Here some photos.

  

   

Sabre 28: Mast step

The Sabre has a deck stepped mast with a solid teak compression post fastened its whole length to the port bulkhead.  The post ends at the sole level and a piece of compromised hardwood was under the sole here.
There was rot of course so I removed it all out.  In its place I made a step support of 3 inch pvc tube filled with chopped carbon fiber set in epoxy.  This was cut and ground to fit the post without the sole in-between.  It stands upon the leads keel.  I then cut a piece of spele to replace to void in the sole.  It rests on a notch in the post support.  It is a tight fit and was pressed into place with thickened epoxy.

Sabre 28: Bottom work

We opened the blisters with a hammer and chisel.  I like this better than a disc sander.  It is way cleaner and you can be both quick and precise.  it has the benefit of preserving the original curvature you can fair to.  After the hull dried for 20 days, I filled the voids with West System epoxy with adhesive filler and barrier coat additive.
After this set, It was sanded and got an additional fairing coat.  After this was sanded I rolled on 2 passes of barrier coat additive in epoxy.
Today we will lightly sand this in preparation for our ablative bottom paint.  We will be using Pettit Ultima SR 60.

Sabre 28 hatch supports

The Sabre has a lazarette and 2 additional hatches in the cockpit.
One on each starboard and port as is standard.
None of them ever had a support and to access the spaces, you had to use one hand to hold the lid or risk the lid slamming shut on you.
This week I found a fantastic product made by Moonlight Marine.
I bought the 2  my West Marine had in stock and I will get another.
You install them to support the lid in the fully open position.  To close the lid you bend the spring and the hatch will close.  When in the open position, the spring is rigid and can firmly hold a good deal of weight.

It is a simple and elegant solution.  I love them.
Here are some installation photos...

New Year's day regatta

Here in Oriental, we have an "Instead of Football Regatta".
It is a great tradition.  I think this year was the 27th annual.
Great conditions and lots of boats of all sizes.

Sabre 28: water in the bilge!

Our port light replacement project was started to address an apparent leak.  There is often water in the bilge and the port lights seemed like the place to start.  While this did stop some of the water from getting into the boat, there was another source that was hard to track down.
Last week I discovered the source.  The water lift muffler has a pin hole leak.
It was hard to find because it would only leak when the engine was running and I was never looking when the engine was running.
With the raw water seacock shut, it was pretty easy to hacksaw the hoses and remove the old unit.
It was "stainless".  For it's replacement, I hoped to find a fiberglass model and was lucky to spot one at the new Anchors Away marine consignment store in Oriental.
With a slight bit of modification, it was an easy swap and the Beta 14 is purring again with no water leaks.

Ye old water lift

The new/used Centek unit with the inlet tapered to a smaller diameter and an elbow.

To make the nipple the correct diameter, I found the right size socket, wrapped it with Tyvek,  then added glass and
epoxy.  Then to remove the socket, I used the impact driver to break it free then pulled out the Tyvek.

Installed behind the diesel

Happy again.

Sabre 28: rig tensioning

On a recent sail we noticed too much slack in the leeward shrouds.
I found my old Loos cable gauge.  With suggestions from the original Sabre manual that came with the boat, we went from shroud to shroud and slowly and evenly increased the tension.
On a subsequent sail, leeward slack was much reduced and we have a bit more confidence in the standing rigging.

Sabre 28: diesel maintenance

Our Sabre was repowered with a Beta Marine 14.  We don't have a sure idea when this happened but our guess is around 2005.
The engine looks to have low hours.
The installation was well executed with proper fuel and raw water plumbing.
It has a dripless shaft seal (a big plus.)
When we got the boat we immediately replaced the impeller even though it looked to be in fine shape.  We also changed the fluids.
I haven't owned a boat with an inboard diesel but to my eye, the water flow out with the exhaust seemed low.  The last few days, we removed the heat exchanger and pickled it with a dilution of muratic acid.  This cleaned off significant scaling.   We also removed and cleaned the raw water strainer.  Once all was back together, there was no discernible change in the flow.  I then started testing each passage the raw water passed through and fairly quickly found the problem.

The clogged tube that leads raw water from the  impeller pump to the heat exchanger.

In a previous impeller replacement, the debris of a disintegrated impeller was not removed from the tube leading to the heat exchanger.  It was 85% clogged with rubber shrapnel.  This evening we are fishing out the last of this debris and expect a decent flow the next time we fire up the iron genny.

The newly cleaned heat exchanger.

The heat exchanger is the rectangle the cap is attached to.

This is a cap with a vented loop.  This is on the rear of the unit as the water is headed  back to sea.

Back it the correct location.

Another view of the rear cap showing both the old and new zinks.
This part as well as new o-rings were purchased at Beta Marine of Minnesott Beach, NC.  It is handy to have the North American headquarters of Beta just around the corner.

Sabre 28: Sailing!

We have been working on old boat issues and sailing when we can.
Here are some of the items we have addressed recently:
But first some Sailing!

1.  Removed a diesel/electric water heater.  It was taking up too much room and interfering with the engine circulation.
2.  Installed a big Rule automatic bilge pump.
3.  Removed the shore electric and a variety of abandoned circuits.
4.  Installed a battery cover for the 2 deep cycle batteries.
5.  Replaced the deck flood light and mast light with LED bulbs.
6.  Did the required glass work and reinstalled new/used stanchions to replace the 2 that were damaged in Florence.  We also rewired all 4 lifelines.

Sabre 28: Mast inspection

My eldest son was willing to take a ride up the mast in a bosun's chair to inspect the mast.
The standing rigging is in adequate condition at present.  All the bulbs are burnt out. There are three lights on the mast: deck flood, steaming light and masthead.  He was able to open the fixtures and retrieve the bulbs.  We will find the LED replacements and have another trip up the mast.

Sabre 28: deck

Other than the chainplate penetrations, the deck is in good shape.
I replaced the solar fan with a new and larger unit.  We have been sanding the teak and varnishing our way around the deck.

Sabre 28!

Oriental, NC  the land of milk, honey and boats.
A nice neighbor lady gave us sweet deal on a 1978 Sabre 28 Mark ll.
I thought it would be a couple of years before we managed to acquire a nice cruiser, but low and behold this beauty:

She was nearby all along!