Tuesday, July 28, 2015

Harbor view

Harbor view in Oriental.

In amongst the tall pines...
Here I am walking the property and figuring out the site plan...

Wednesday, July 15, 2015

New Port of Call

We moved to the lovely town of Oriental, North Carolina.
A few years ago we visited it on a family trip after learning about it on the excellent site:


We bought a lot down here and if you are interested in sailing, you should too.
Our plan is to build a home and then to set up a boat shop.
Here are some views around town and a Google view of the area.
Come visit!
Ingo having an evening sail in the inner harbor.
August is manning the chase boat.
Big and little shrimp boats are plying the local waters.
Soft shell Blue crabs off the dock

Oriental's town dragon swimming in the pond.

Checking out the facilities.

Snide signage around town.

The shrimping is good now.  The fleet is in.
The larger neighborhood.

Thursday, July 9, 2015

Square Meter: End game

The last few projects I am involved in on the square meter involved finishing the non skid, another coat of varnish and a bit more rudder fairing.
My family and I have an opportunity to move to the sounds of North Carolina.  The owners have a rigger lined up to take over the project and will do some of the finish carpentry themselves.
Here are the last of my photos of this beautiful boat...

The new dynel non-skid got a light sanding and a coat of almond paint.
(it looks blue here next to our tarp at the end of the barn.)

The first coat of varnish will get a sanding an many additional coats.

Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Square Meter: Varnish on the top sides

The mahogany planking on the topsides is in fine shape with the exception of two planks that had some rot.  We replaced these and did our best at spot staining to bring them close to the old mahogany color.  At this point we sanded up to 220, blew everything off and started varnishing.
Here are some photos:

Before we got to varnish the house, we added 6oz glass set in epoxy.  This stiffened it up and stopped what would have been a leaky roof.
Ready to go. We dropped the straps before varnish.
The hull is balanced on it's keel with steel angles holding the boat upright.

The hull is getting a light staining above the waterline.
In this photo the new biaxial glass skin is visible. From the waterline down, we added layers of glass set in epoxy.
The boat will most likely be used for a month each summer, so this was the route the owners decided on.

Before and after the first coat of varnish.

Sunday, June 14, 2015

Square Meter: Non skid deck

The original canvas deck was rotted but still intact when we started the reconstruction of this boat.  The decision was made to move to dynel set in epoxy.  It has the same fabric type texture but creates a watertight and structural skin that painted canvas can't match.
A toe rail will be added over the seam. You can see the texture in this closeup.
As you saturate the dynel with epoxy, it continues to absorb it for a while and swells a bit.  This brings the texture back to the surface and provides the non skid attribute.
Here are some photos:

After the epoxy firms up but before it is hard, it is easy to trim the cloth with a razor.

Friday, June 12, 2015

Square Meter: Rudder Fairing

After the rudder was trimmed to shape,  we sanded the surface in order to prep for fairing.  The vacuuming really gets the cloth tight to the tangs.  It is showing its ribs like a starving dog.
To smooth things out we will be adding epoxy thickened with colloidal silica and then outer coatings will be with epoxy thickened with West Systems low density fairing compound (#407) to ease sanding.
On other rudder rebuilds, we have used some foam with many layers of glass cloth to get the strength up.  This doubled over heavy carbon cloth feels as stiff as 1/4 inch steel plate, so glass cloth is unneeded. All we have to do is build up a fair surface.


Monday, June 1, 2015

Square Meter: Rebuilding the Rudder

The original rudder was fortunately with the boat.  This allowed us to fabricate a copy faithful to the original design.
To do this we had a 1 inch steel shaft cut to length and had 5 tangs welded on.
After we received this we were ready to vacuum bag on carbon cloth.  Once the cloth became rigid, we cut it to shape and over the next few days we will sand and add fairing to make a nice foil shape.
Here are photos to date...

The original wood and steel rudder is visible off to the right.

Thursday, May 14, 2015

Hull #3, 100% carbon fiber

Our first 100% carbon board is sold and off into the world.
The customer supplied a nice Sea Deck pad.  It has great texture and feel.
Other than the pretty pad and colorful grab loops, the board is all black, including deck hatch and 9 inch fin.
Here are some photos:

Becky taking her new board out for a spin!

Curt holding the board in a gust of wind!
Hold on Curt!

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

All Carbon Fiber SUP!!!

After gaining experience with carbon fiber reinforcement in our paddles and blades, we were determined to eventually move away from fiberglass and go 100% carbon fiber as soon as we could.

See this post from 2012: carbon-fiber-molding

With the vast yardage in a SUP we wanted to have the process down pretty well before we committed to the increased material cost.
This year we are doing it.  All of our boards from now on will be 100% carbon fiber.
These are hollow structural skin boards.
No Foam !  No Glass !
We got an order for a board and went ahead and put in a big order with our CF supplier.
Today we pulled our first all CF deck.
Sea State CF12 deck.

Our new roll of CF cloth!

Thursday, April 9, 2015

Square Meter: Keel Ho !

After a good deal of prep-work, we have bolted and bonded the lead keel to the 1929 square meter class racing sloop.
The new 316 stainless bolts we installed in the lead casting lined up well with the receiving holes on the keel timber.  They just required a little coaxing as we lowered the hull onto the stationary lead.

The boat is suspended in the barn from 4 points.  We were using cable come-alongs which operate with a ratchet handle.  The boat's owner, Bruce, had a chain-fall hoist.  I had never used one.  They are fantastic!  They are small and are easy to use.  They also allow great control over the load.  This helped with the delicate operation of setting the hull onto the bolts.

Once I discovered how useful they were, I replaced all the come-alongs with chain-falls.
After we did a dry run of setting the hull down, we marked and ground out a few obstructions on the lead mating surface.

Once we were all set, 3M 5200 was liberally applied and the process began.  Here are photos...

The lead keel seen here weighs about 2000 pounds.

Chain-falls are awesome!

Off to scrap.

The mating surface is cleaned up and ready to go.

3M 5200 at the ready.

The holes in the keel timber had some wallow, so the hole was backfilled with 5200 and a 316 stainless  fender washer was added to tighten up the clearance to prevent any water intrusion.

Ready to lower.

Captain Bruce is happy about this step.  The wedge is to help with vertical alignment.

That is a load off!

Friday, March 20, 2015

Square Meter: Keel Bolts

For the last few work sessions on the boat we have been learning how to drill through lead.  It is difficult but after figuring out a few tricks, no problem at all.

We have installed six all thread 316 stainless 1/2 inch rods into the keel.
When the keel was cast long ago, iron rods were embedded in the lead.  These have been cut off at the mating surface and the new bolts are offset a few inches from the originals.

We initially tried using a high speed steel bit to drill into the lead.  No good.  The shavings are not ejected and quickly bind up the bit.  It will either break or become immovable.  We did it both ways.
Next we tried a forstner bit.  This worked well.  It cuts a clean hole and the short walls of the bit allow it to be frequently removed to clean the hole.  Unfortunately we did not have one with sufficient length.

While we were waiting on a special long shaft bit we ordered from Rockler, we tried a new sharp ship auger bit.  (love the name)
While I expected it to be too aggressive and bind up, it just pulled out this beautiful long apple peel of lead.  You can drill about a half to three quarters of an inch then pull the bit to clean it off.

Once we figured this out, the holes were quickly done.  We drilled the primary holes for the bolts and then from the side, we cut in a set of holes we worked into slots to fit in the washers and nuts.

Here are some low quality phone photos of the work...

The 16 inch long Ship Auger bit is visible in the drill at the top of the photo.

Here the doubled 316 fender washers and nut are visible in the slot.

Our first ugly hole.

In this photo the lead is laid on its side to facilitate drilling.  Here, 5 of the six bolts are installed.